The flight to Siem Reap from Singapore took about 2 hours. As we crossed the coastline I could see rivers and a patchwork quilt of fields, which I assumed were predominantly rice paddies. From this height there was no obvious signs of life. The countryside looked flat and gradually changed to become more forested and hilly. As the plane began it's descent the ground below looked a brilliant verdant green the patchwork of fields dissapeared and then took on a muddy coloured appearance. Lower still and below was a brown expanse. It suddenly dawned on me that we were coming in over lake Tonle Sap and what I was observing was the flooded plains of the surrounding countryside and the brown waters of the lake. Far from being devoid of life this is one of the most abundant places on earth. What concerned me was the fact that we seemed to be landing in all this water. In fact while being 100's of kilometres inland, Siem Reap is only 15metres above sea level.
Arrival procedures, picked up by the hotel shuttle, check in, luxury hotel etcetera......fast forward.
I hired a car and driver for the afternoon. While Angkor Wat is a temple in it's own right, it also refers to a complex of temples. Driving into the complex you begin to realise the incredible size of this area. The approaxh is via tree lined avenues, which give it an English park like feel. Some people choose to ride bicycles around here. I would not, it is too big and to damned hot.
I commenced my tour at Angkor Thom (Google it for details). The temple lies in ruins and has only been partially restored. Consisting of 3 levels, it took several hours just to walk around. Without a guide I know that I missed heaps, however I was just struggling to comprehend the enormity of it. I took a break at one stage and visited a Buddhist shrine and then on a couple of occasions had to just sit and try to take it all in. At the very top a Hindu shrine is tucked away and it was welcome relief to spend a few minutes there away from the heat and sun and the mental overload. This temple alone probably warrants several visits to try to comprehend it.
I have little to compare this temple to. Borobodur in Java is probably larger in size and has the same awe inspiring effect. Winchester Cathedral is more modern and technically a greater achievement, I have not seen the great pyramids, but I suspect given the age these temples rival them in every way.
You may take it from the preceding that I was mightily impressed.
Moving on from there I visited the Bayon. A pyramidal structure, notable for it's steep climb to the top. I took the climb with some trepidation, the first part of the climb was a steep set of steps built into the structure, I might possibly, in a testosterone laden moment, have ignored the wooden steps and handrail purpose built for tourists. The final climb there was no option, the suicidal steps or stay down. Finishing with a walk around the platform of the Leper King and the Elephant concourse.
By this stage, despite the heat and dehydration, I had consumed lots of water, my bladder was about to burst and I was in serious need of rehydration therapy. I rushed the last bits.
The Bludger was hot, thirsty and overwhelmed.
Nick Smith
Nick@nicksmith.info
Sent from my Acer Iconia A500 Tab
It's almost beyond words, the sense of timelessness and yet the echoing past is all around, spooky but awesome.
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